Brass: A yellowish alloy of copper and zinc, sometimes including small amounts of other metals, but usually 67 percent copper and 33 percent zinc.
Bronze: 85 % copper and 15 % zinc, has a dark goldlike look.
Buckle set: Normally three pieces: one a buckle, another the tip of the belt and the third is a piece that holds the end of the belt. Almost always in silver or gold with lots of engraving.
Engrave: To carve, cut or etch into a block or surface.
Gold Electroplate: A thin layer of gold is electroplated (electrically bonded to the surface) for a rich and lustrous finish.
Gold Fill: The bucklemaker uses a metal plate with gold 10-20% of the thickness on top, normally at least 10 karat gold, usually bronze underneath that. The gold layer must be at least 1/20 th by weight of the total combined gold and metal to be classified as gold filled. A marking of 1/10th by weight is higher in gold content. Intricate deep carving requires the deeper depth, lots of times on older buckles the 10 % fill wears off through use and you can see spots where the bronze or other materials shows through.
Handcrafted: A crafted buckle skilfully constructed entirely by hand rather than by machine.
Hand Engraved: An engraving process where the artist frist traces a pattern ontao a piece of silver or other material and then carves individual lines with hand held tools to from that engraving pattern. No machines or mechanical stamps are used.
Overlay: Overlay is constructed from two layers of sterling silver. A design is traced on a sheet of silver and cut out with a jewelers`s saw by hand. This top design layer is then silver soldered to another sheet, the bottom layer, of silver. Texturing is added to the bottom layer in all the open areas of the design using a hemmer and a small punch. The assembled item is hammered into its final form, contoured and oxidized to blacken the negative areas of the design. The top surface is then buffed to either a matte-like stain finish or to a mirror-like high polish.
Lining: Using Norwegian or Belgian back or shoulder of cow – tightest fiber.
Bevling: (Like wood) – getting the right thickness of lining. How thick is the alligator skin –compared to the cow hide used to get the right feel and comfort of the finished product.
Buffing: Polish of lining.
Natural lining: Unpolished
Collagen: Fiberstrength (tightest fiber direction) is north-south of the alligator skin – every other exotic skin has the collagen east – west. An alligator cut should then be north south to get a long lasting product.
Die: Stamping for example a logo on the belt using a die.
Sanding: Polishing by hand
Handrub: Even better polishing
Handpaint: Using waterbased paint inside holes and edge.
Gluing: Using waterbased glue to lay topside skin onto liner.
Splice: Putting bits of skin together onto liner.
Dome: Making round edges on belts and keepers.
Handstitching: Handsticting behind keepers.
Bleaching: To avoid spots, marks of reptiles etc.
Tanning: Vegetable tanning
Trimming: Cutting the skin into beltshape
Glazing Jack Machine: A machine holding an agat stone used for blanking against a surface of cow hide for friction. The exotic skin is run into the machine to make a glossy or shiny finish